Articles

Digitizing and recovering the knowledge of traditional Chinese colour of the Nanjing brocade


Abstract


Colour knowledge of Nanjing Brocade has not been systematically and precisely documented due to many difficulties. This paper presents a comprehensive research on literature, artifacts and expert experience to demonstrate the colour range of Nanjing brocade from the conceptual and visual perspectives. By text mining, the commonly used colours of Nanjing brocade have been collected. Then, a combined research of chemical experiments of natural dyes in textile fragments and traditional dyeing experiments finds out the specific materials used in the ancient China and what kind of colours are dyed by these materials. Finally, a perceptual evaluation by experts helped match the colour samples to terms and a colour specification in line with Chinese aesthetics has been developed. With internationally accepted LCh value, the specification will facilitate colour identification and application for researchers, producers, and designers.


Keywords


Chinese colour; textile colour; text mining; natural dyes; dyeing experiment; perceptual evaluation

Full Text:

PDF


DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2423//i22394303v12n1p95

References


Burke, P. (2012). A social history of knowledge: From the encyclopaedia to Wikipedia. Cambridge, England: Polity.

Cao, L. Y. (2012). A quantified research on the color words in A Dream of Red Mansions. Unpublished doctor’s thesis, Soochow University.

Cui, W. (2019). Summary of the research on traditional colour in Beijing. Report in The 2019 Annual Conference on Chinese Traditional Colors. https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/1vKT_8IkoBLM0yhIDTQ32w.

Dai, J. (2009). Nanjing brocade. Suzhou, China: Soochow University Press.

DocuSky Collaboration Platform. Retrieved from http://docusky.org.tw.

Fan, J. (2016). The world of clothes: A study on the history of Jiangnan silk in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Nanjing, China: Jiangsu People's Publishing House.

Fraser, B., Bunting, F., & Murphy, C. (2004). Real world color management. San Francisco, CA: Peachpit Press.

Hemming, J. (2017). Pale horses and green dawns. Elusive colour terms in early Welsh heroic poetry. North American journal of Celtic studies, 1(2), 189-223.

Huang, N., Wang, B., & Xiao, Z. (2003). Nanjing brocade of China. Nanjing, China: Nanjing Press.

Kim, S. H. (2006). The classical colors of China. Yunnan, China: Yunnan People’s Publishing House.

Kuhn, T. (1996). The structure of scientific revolutions. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press.

Li, L. (2019). New attempt on the construction of Chinese traditional color system: Quantitative analysis and color range exploration based on literature, relics and techniques. In The 2019 Annual Conference Proceedings on Chinese Traditional Colors. Beijing, China: Culture and Art Publishing House.

Liu, J., Wang, Y., et al. (2020). The Qianlong palette: The research on dyes in the 17th–19th century textiles and reconstitution of the Qing dynasty colors. Zhejiang, China: Zhejiang University Press.

MARKUS. Text Analysis and Reading Platform. Retrieved from https://dh.chinese-empires.eu/beta/.

Pauk, V., Barták, P., & Lemr, K. (2014). Characterization of natural organic colourants in historical and art objects by high-performance liquid chromatography. Journal of Separation Science, 37(23): 3393-3410.

Tan, A. H. (1999). Text mining: The state of the art and the challenges. In Proceedings of the pakdd 1999 workshop on knowledge discovery from advanced databases (Vol. 8, pp. 65-70).

Tang, T. T. (2014). A quantitative research on the color words in The Plum in the Golden Vase. Unpublished doctor’s thesis, Soochow University.

UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Craftsmanship of Nanjing Yunjin brocade. Retrieved from https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/craftsmanship-of-nanjing-yunjin-brocade-00200.

Wong, M. Y., Zhou, Y., & Xu, H. (2016). Big data in fashion industry: Color cycle mining from runway data. In Proceedings of the AMCIS 2016: Surfing the IT Innovation Wave—22nd Americas Conference on Information Systems (pp. 1-10). San Diego, CA: Association for Information Systems.

Xu, Z., et al. (2002). Nanjing Brocade. Nanjing, China: Nanjing Press.

Zhang, X. P. (2014). Analysis and application of Nanjing brocade colour and plant dyeing. Unpublished master’s thesis, Nanjing University of the Arts.

Zhou, S. (2020). A cognitive analysis of conceptual metaphors of color idioms in English and Chinese based on data mining. In International Conference on Application of Intelligent Systems in Multi-modal Information Analytics (pp. 349-355). Springer, Cham.


Article Metrics

Metrics Loading ...

Metrics powered by PLOS ALM

Refbacks

  • There are currently no refbacks.


Copyright (c) 2022 Wensi Lin, Mengyue Mengyue, Jisheng Wang, Mengqi Li, Jing Chen

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

 

 

SCIRES-IT, e-ISSN 2239-4303

Journal founded by Virginia Valzano